Jewelry is more than just a fashion accessory. These sensitive ornaments often get a special energy from the amazing skills used to make them. Four Ateliers d’Art de France artists sublimate jewelry in their own way by exploring a wide range of materials.
By Nadine Guérin
Catherine Cazes works in both France and Italy. In 2006, she opened a glassmaking workshop in Aveyron but selects her raw materials in Murano, Italy where she applies the ancestral technique of spinning glass with a blow torch to create and decorate each piece. But she doesn’t only play with fire! Catherine Cazes composes harmonious, almost weightless assemblages of colors, bubbles and cracks. Before becoming a glass craftswoman, she studied art history and anthropology. Her Tourbillions, Grappes or Arums collections are inspired by rich landscapes while traces of vegetation and minerals influence her decorative repertory.
Games of construction.
Claire Marfisi’s creations make us think of collars, bib fronts or even carapaces yet her white porcelain pieces appear delicate and light. The ceramicist, who studied at the Olivier de Serres applied arts school in Paris, has perfected an exclusive technique that has become her signature: open squares, cut in sheets, interlace in creations that look like a cross between handknits and lace. In her Vincennes workshop, she assembles hundreds of articulated, generous shapes that are supple yet solid. These jewelry sculptures reflect Claire Marfisi’s taste for games of construction and sensitively define empty or full spaces with their unique, jingling sounds.
Lucile Dumolard has been a jeweler since 2013. After learning precious jewelry techniques in Lyon, she opened a workshop in Grenoble where today she patiently solders, sands, sets and polishes each silver, vermeil or gold piece by hand. Under the Lu Du brand name, she develops elegant jewelry that takes ideas from a variety of inspirations. Her Worm or Terra
Incognita 2.0 lines free up pure, geometric shapes and she incorporates paper for her varnished or folded, Japanese fan-like pieces. Lucile Dumolard is also attached to the organic phenomenons of nature: dew drops, ocean swells or rugged rocks play a role in her sensitive, strongly evocative universe.
A taste for elsewhere.
Since 2013, the Artisan Créateur has fulfilled the desires of cosmopolitan travellers. Julie Lambert-Coucot’s handmade necklaces, rings and earrings let materials speak for themselves. As the daughter and granddaughter of watchmakers and precious jewelers, the profession was already in her genes! She graduated from Ecole Boulle and perfected her skills by working in Place Vendome jewelers or costume jewelry companies. She decided to create her own collection after a trip
to Madasgascar where she discovered zebu horn. Julie Lambert-Coucot makes horn pieces with a clean, luxurious look and timeless elegance. And her one-off hair accessories and beard or mustache combs add the final touch to a collection with a bold authenticity.